Fermentation tank use common troubleshooting
Fermenter common problems and solutions
Tools needed: multimeter (measuring voltage and resistance);
The first part, temperature problem
First, the temperature does not rise when the temperature is automatically controlled.
1. Force the cooling valve to start until there is water in the drain line to ensure that the heater and the fermenter jacket have water. Check the cold water solenoid valve, check valve, and water level.
l The cooling water solenoid valve is blocked, and the cooling valve can be frequently activated to remove the particles in the valve path; if there is still an abnormality, the cooling water valve core needs to be disassembled and cleaned; when the cold water solenoid valve works normally, the iron tool can be used. To test if there is magnetic attraction.
l Check valve blockage: rush once with high pressure water and close once to restore the internal elasticity of the valve.
l Check if the water level is normal in the program. If the water is full of heaters, the water level will be green.
l The jacket drain valve is not closed and water is always drained.
2. Set the temperature, 5 degrees higher than the measured value; start automatic, the longest heating time is set for 30s. Check PLC output point Q0.0, heating relay, solid state relay, heating circuit breaker, heating fuse, temperature protection, heater.
l Heating circuit breaker trip: Re-close.
l Heat the fuse. When the red indicator light is off, disconnect a new fuse.
l When heating, Q0.0, heating relay, solid state relay should be bright.
l Q0.0 does not light: the water level is low, it should be the program limit can not be heated, such as automatic sterilization start; or start the temperature multi-stage; stop the automatic sterilization program in the control system or stop the running sequence temperature control program.
l The heating relay is not bright: it may be due to loose wiring or bad relay, tighten the connector or change to a normal relay test;
l The solid state relay is not lit: the wiring may be loose, the temperature protection protection switch is disconnected, and it is necessary to check whether the line on the temperature protection is disconnected.
l The temperature protection setting is too low: when the temperature protection is protected, the temperature protection needs to be adjusted, normally 60 degrees; whether the temperature protection is connected at both ends.
l Damage to the heater: Use a clamp-type multimeter to measure the heater wire for current. If there is no current, the heater burns out (special note: or measure the resistance of the heater wire. If there is no resistance, it can be determined that the heater wire is damaged). The resistance wire needs to be replaced.
3. The circulation pump is broken: the heater works normally but the tank temperature does not rise. The circulating water pump needs to be repaired or replaced. By measuring the temperature of the pipeline at both ends of the circulation pump by hand, if the difference is too large, the circulation pump is faulty and needs to be replaced.
4. The 220V heating power supply zero line in the control cabinet is not connected.
Second, at the beginning of heating, the power supply trips
1. Disconnect the heater: the fuse of the heating fuse and the neutral of the heating breaker are disconnected
l If it is normal after disconnection, the problem is on the heater and output line.
l Measure the resistance of the two disconnected lines and the resistance between the two. If the resistance of the neutral and live wires is at a normal value (such as 40 ohms), then there should be an open circuit between one of the wires and the case. Check if the line has a broken skin, otherwise it will be the place where the heater terminal is broken.
l The resistance of the neutral and live wires is abnormal, check the line and the heater.
2. Disconnect the heating relay
l If it returns to normal, check the wiring between the heating relay and the solid state relay;
l Generally it is a problem with solid state relays.
Third, the automatic temperature control time, the temperature only rises and falls, the possible reason
1. Force the cooling valve to start until there is water in the drain line to ensure that the heater and the fermenter jacket have water. In this way, check the water circulation line, the cold water solenoid valve, the check valve, and the water level.
2. The tap water pipe is blocked (check the total water valve, whether the pipe is smooth, etc.)
3. In addition, if there is a chiller, check that the valve on the chiller is not open or that the chiller is out of water, the pump is broken, etc.
4. The cooling solenoid valve is broken.
5. The control circuit of the solenoid valve is broken (including: plc, relay, insurance, transformer damage)
6. The tap water pressure is insufficient (open the solenoid valve and close the circulation valve jacket pressure is zero or very small)
Fourth, the display temperature deviates from the actual temperature
1, poor temperature electrode contact, check the line
2, temperature correction is not enough, need to be recalibrated
Fifth, the temperature control accuracy does not meet the requirements
The PID parameter setting is changed. P can be set to 2, I is 150, and D is 0.
The second part of the mixing problem
1. Start the stirring in the control software, but the motor does not rotate.
1. Check if there is any air-opening or insurance matching between the motor and the power supply, and whether it is damaged.
2. Check that the wiring in the motor is correct.
3. Check if the drive displays an error code or flashes.
4. Check if the emergency stop button is activated and reset the emergency stop button.
TECO common error:
AL-03 power supply four core line alarm
AL-04 power supply four core line alarm
AL-05 encoder nine core line alarm
Leadshine common error:
Er150: Code line alarm
Second, the speed is abnormal
1. Sudden power off and restart the motor reverse: the circuit breaker's line is not pressed, reconnect the line.
2. There is abnormal noise when the motor rotates: Observe whether the contact of the coupling is intact from the shaft seat hole; whether the shaft seal has abnormal noise; whether the shaft is shaking;
3, the motor is hot: the motor load is too large, causing the motor current is too large, thus causing the winding heat, can stop the motor, check whether the mechanical transmission parts (such as bearings, shaft seals, etc.) are faulty.
4. The motor speed rotates within a certain range, and the tank body resonates and shakes: the working speed of the equipment is within the critical speed range, which can be adjusted by the manufacturer.
5. The measured speed value deviates from the displayed value: recalibration
The third part of the feeding and defoaming and other peristaltic pumps
1. Manual control, but the peristaltic pump does not run: first check if the relay is damaged, if the relay is normal, check the relevant circuit.
2. The feed material of the feed is not pumped into the tank; observe whether the pressure inside the tank is too high, or loosen the spring of the pressure roller with a screwdriver, or replace the position of the latex tube.
3. The feeding latex tube rotates with the peristaltic pump pressure roller: the clamp for holding the latex tube is loose, and the pump head needs to be replaced.
The fourth part of the leak detection
1. Ventilation section pressure. After a certain pressure, close the intake valve and close the exhaust valve. Observe the presence or absence of leaks and test with soapy water. Tighten the connector or replace the seal if there is a leak
2. If it is a steam line, drain the condensate through the steam, close the drain valve, and observe the leak. Tighten the connector or replace the seal if there is a leak
The fifth part of the valve problem
1. The diaphragm valve cannot be closed. First check if the diaphragm valve is completely closed. Secondly, check the diaphragm valve for foreign matter. Check the diaphragm for damage and replace it with a new one.
2. The pneumatic diaphragm valve cannot be opened to check if the minimum air pressure at which the pneumatic valve is activated is reached.
3.
Part VI pH problem
1. The normal zero point is 0, the slope is about 1.000; the signal value corresponding to pH 7.0 is about 7, the output voltage of the transmitter is about 3V, the signal value corresponding to pH4.0 is about 4, and the output voltage of the transmitter is Around 2.0V.
2. If the value differs from the above values ​​by more than 20%, the electrodes and wires, transmitter, etc. should be checked.
3. The pH electrode can detect the voltage of the pH electrode with a multimeter in different pH buffers. The voltage is 0mV at pH7.0, the voltage is 175mV at pH4.0, and the voltage is 120mV at pH9.18. The deviation is normal within 30mV, otherwise the electrode will be replaced.
4. pH wire, mainly check the joints at both ends. Whether the connector connecting the pH electrode is damp, the copper piece is broken, etc.; the connector connected to the pH transmitter is loose or rusted. Here you can cut off one cut and re-do the pH wiring to solve most of the faults, otherwise you will only have to replace the wires.
5. pH transmitter, first check that the power supply module ±24V is normal, the input signal terminal is shorted by wire, then the output voltage should be 3V ± 0.2V, if the deviation is very large, the transmitter failure.
Part VII DO problem
1. The normal zero point is 0, the slope is about 1.000; the 0% corresponding signal value is 6400, the transmitter output voltage is about 1V, the 100% corresponding signal value is 14600, and the transmitter output voltage is about 2.2V. .
2. If the value differs from the above values ​​by more than 20%, the electrodes and wires, transmitter, etc. should be checked.
3. Before using the DO electrode, it needs to be energized for 6 hours to work properly.
4. The DO electrode is in saturated sodium sulfite solution, at this time 0%, the signal is 6400, the transmitter output signal should be at 1.0V; the DO electrode is exposed to the air, at this time should be around 85%-90%, the transmission The output voltage of the device should be 2.2V, otherwise the DO electrolyte or DO film should be replaced.
5. DO wire, mainly check the joints at both ends. Is the connector connected to the DO electrode damp; the connector connected to the DO transmitter is loose or rusty. Here you can cut off one cut and re-do the DO wiring, which can solve most of the faults, otherwise it will only replace the wires.
6. DO transmitter, first detect the power supply module ±24V are normal, the input signal terminal is disconnected, the output voltage should be 1V ± 0.2V, if the deviation is large, the transmitter is faulty .
The eighth part of the problem of infection
1. The equipment has poor air tightness and leak detection. Also check if the PH and DO gaskets are damaged and replace with a new feed silicone plug.
2. The filter element is aged and replaced with a new one.
3. Sterilization operation error, failure to completely sterilize, re-sterilization by standard operation.
Part IX Control System and Software
First, the touch screen :
1. Touching the part of the monitor screen with your finger does not complete the corresponding operation normally: recalibrate
2. The touch screen cursor shifts in one direction, and the finger touch screen does not respond: the fixed touch screen nut is fixedly unbalanced, and the nut can be loosened to observe whether the situation is improved.
Second, the control system software
1, the controller crashes: restart, if you can not solve, please contact the manufacturer.
2. The host computer cannot receive the data: check if the communication line is loose.
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