One, thinning and fixing fruit
The first fruit thinning starts 15-20 days after flowering, which mainly removes malformed fruit, diseased fruit, small fruit, ear fruit, rigid fruit, excessive fruit, etc. The amount of fruit thinning is relatively large. According to practical experience, the inner bore renewal area has poor lighting and is responsible for the important task of cultivating the fruiting mother branches in the coming year. Therefore, the fruit commodity rate is low, and the key thinning of the fruit in the inner bore of the canopy can be achieved. After pollination, young kiwi fruit grows rapidly, and the nutrient consumption is very large. Timely removal of secondary fruit can save nutrients, focus on cultivating high-quality fruit, and improve commercialization and commodity rate.
Ding fruit (usually called the second fruit thinning) is mainly before the bagging of young fruit, and the time is about 35 to 40 days after flowering. After a month of growth, there will be a certain gap between the size of the fruits. At this time, the fruits that cannot grow up should be eliminated again to improve the regularity of the growth of the fruits. When determining the fruit, the amount of thinning fruit is relatively small, which directly determines the yield. The amount of retained fruit is determined according to the tree vigor and the estimated yield per mu. The estimated yield per mu divided by the weight of a single fruit is the amount of fruit retained per mu. According to the vigorous tree, there are slightly more weak trees. Slightly less.
Two, soaking fruit, bagging
Swelling agents are used on many other fruit trees, such as grapes. The original intention of using the swelling agent is to improve the quality of the fruit (not only the appearance but also the inner part). First, you must pay attention to the concentration; second, the fertilizer and water management must keep up; one week before the soaking of the fruit, it must be fertilized and irrigated in advance (when the rainfall is insufficient) to ensure the nutrient and water supply required for the rapid growth of the fruit after the soaking, otherwise the fruit will expand too much Fast, nutrition and moisture can not keep up directly resulting in hollowness and poor taste.
Fruit bagging, generally speaking, the flavor and taste of the sun-bathed fruit will be better than the bagged fruit, but in order to ensure the appearance quality of the fruit, it is also very common to bag the fruit. Before bagging, the whole garden must be protected against one disease. When bagging, be careful not to damage the stalk to avoid fruit dropping, and at the same time, leave enough space for the fruit to grow.
Three, shelf management
Into the summer means the beginning of the tedious summer shelf management work, mainly the work of topping and wiping buds, controlling the prosperous and vain length of branches. First of all, for the fruiting branches, the branches outside the canopy, after counting 3 to 5 leaves on the top fruit, they should be topped or crushed (it is said that topping can effectively control the germination of side buds) to control the vegetative growth; the inside of the canopy (the next year's fruiting mother) (Branch regeneration zone) Let it grow freely, and the top of the branch tip is obviously thinner when it is tangled.
Secondly, the sprouts are wiped, and the sprouted sprouts are selectively wiped out. All the buds sprouting on the branches outside the canopy are erased; all the buds of the main stem and the triangular area of ​​a stem and two vines are erased; all the seedlings that pop out from the ground are erased. The sprouts growing on the main vine and near the main vine are retained. After they have grown to a certain extent, they can be topped and thickened. Only weak buds can be topped.
Finally, for the elongated shoots in the inner chamber, it may be the late buds with late sprouts. Keep 2~3 cm of heavy topping to promote the side buds to germinate and grow into secondary shoots (ideal middle shoots). This is the same as the pruning of the long branches in the video of the winter cut. At the time, it was said that the long branches were not cut from the base, but left one or two buds to retract extremely.
All in all, the closer the buds are to the main vine, the more they must be used in every possible way, so as to reserve more possibilities for the future renewal of the parent branch.
Fourth, the use of "puffed fruit fertilizer" after flowering
In the nutrient distribution of flowering and fruit trees, the proportion of reproductive growth will gradually increase as the fruit grows, and the nutrient consumption is high. The mineral nutrients require more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen, and the demand for medium and trace elements has increased. The fertilization plan of the post-flowering fertilizer is based on low nitrogen, high phosphorus and high potassium, supplemented by fertilizers such as calcium, boron, and iron (according to the actual situation).
Especially if it is a fruit-soaked orchard, it is necessary to supplement the expanding fruit fertilizer in time. Otherwise, the nutrition can not keep up with the expanding speed in the later stage, which has a great influence on the flavor and taste of the fruit, and it is prone to hollowing. It is advisable to pay attention to a small amount of top dressing several times.
Five, male tree pruning
After pollination, the male tree should be cut again in time to improve the ventilation and light transmission of the shelf surface, cut off the dense and thin branches, and properly retract the outer crown. For male trees, it is generally advisable not to cut in winter or less in winter, and pay attention to summer cutting. After pollination, re-cutting can effectively promote the inner chamber. If it is not pruned or pruned late, it will sprout a lot on the branches that have already bloomed. Thin branches.
6. Frozen Tree Management
This is mainly for some orchards that were severely affected by late frost in the Shaanxi production area in April. The orchards that were frozen at that time have now germinated hidden buds. Due to the uncertain position of the buds, attention should be paid to the work of wiping buds and fixing branches. According to botany, organic nutrients are generally transported from the upper end of the morphology to the lower end of the morphology. For fruit trees that have flower buds to retain yield, it is recommended that the buds on the upper part of the flower buds can be left to grow the fruit, but the basal buds at the lower part of the flower bud may not be able to pass backwards. Nutrient nourishment fruit.
For the sprouting new buds, the main considerations are whether to leave or to stay. One is whether the bud can realize the function of raising fruit, and the other is whether the bud can be used as a mother branch for the next year. It mainly depends on the function of the newly germinated hidden buds, and the others follow the management of normal trees.
In addition, for frostbitten fruit trees, attention should be paid to controlling the amount of fruit hanging to balance vegetative growth and reproductive growth, and do not pruning and retracting (may cause a large number of long branches). If there is no reproductive growth balance tree vigor, the growth of the fruit trees throughout the summer is very large, far greater than the restoration of the tree vigor.
Seven, pest control
After flowering, it can be used for 1 to 2 times to prevent various leaf spot diseases, insect pests, and root rot. For pests such as scarabs, trap lights can be used to manually kill; for root rot, where the summer rainfall is heavy, attention should be paid to drainage and irrigation to improve the soil environment; other leaf spot diseases should be controlled by spraying fungicides to prevent brown spots. prevention. The specific medication plan and the number of sprays are determined according to the actual situation of the orchard, focusing on the prevention and control of brown spot and root rot.
8. Weeding and weeding management
The weeding of the weeds. The weeds of the weeds. Weeding around the tree tray, especially small trees try to choose artificial weeding, because kiwi fruit is very sensitive to herbicides. Properly grow grass between the rows. If the weeds grow too vigorously, use a small lawn mower to remove the weeds. For some orchards with less grass growing or not growing grass very much, green manure can now be planted between rows to prevent the fruit trees from being burned by the high temperature and sunburn in summer. All in all, the orchard must have grass, focus on controlling the growth and amount of grass, and further decide whether to weed or grow grass.
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